Bilberry extract is a key ingredient in our Night Repair Therapy due to its antioxidant properties, most notably its potent anthocyanin and flavonoid content. This makes it a superstar ingredient at scavenging free radicals caused by UV exposure and environmental damage. In turn, this helps to reduce photo damage. Bilberry extract is typically in a serum or cream formula alongside other potent ingredients. 

Bilberry extract benefits 

Bilberry’s benefits include: 

• Scavenging free radicals 
• Brightens dullness 
• Protects against photo-oxidative stress
• Soothing for sensitive skin despite antioxidant properties 

Bilberry extract side effects 

Bilberry is a well tolerated ingredient, however all skincare can run the risk of allergy so patch test before use if you’re worried about reactions.

Tomato skin might not seem like a powerful skincare ingredient at first, but the lycopene obtained from bio-liquified organic tomato skin protects from photo-oxidative stress and inflammation. 

Lycopene skin benefits 

• Prevents photo-damage 
• Protects against inflammation

Lycopene skin side effects 

• Irritation rarely occurs 

Niacinamide (known as vitamin B3) is an incredibly versatile ingredient in skincare. It’s often found formulated in serums and moisturisers as it can help with reducing inflammation, strengthening the skin barrier and helping the skin retain moisture. 

One of the reasons niacinamide is so widely used is that alongside its benefits, it works well with other skincare ingredients. It’s regularly combined with ingredients like vitamin C and retinol. 

Niacinamide benefits 

Niacinamide has a long list of benefits, including: 

• Reducing inflammation 
• Regulating sebum production 
• Strengthening skin barrier 
• Reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) 
• Improving uneven skin texture

How to use niacinamide? 

Niacinamide is typically in a cream or serum formula and can be applied morning and night. In a Chapters routine, it’s used four times a week to ensure efficacy without any irritation. 

Niacinamide side effects 

• Irritating if used too often so it’s best to use niacinamide in your routine as instructed.

Vitamin C is a superstar ingredient for the skin, with L-ascorbic acid being the most potent. It’s a well-known ingredient for fighting the effects of sun damage, reducing signs of ageing, minimising hyperpigmentation and revealing an overall brightness to dull skin. 

It’s commonly found in a serum formula and used in the morning ahead of sunscreen. However, not all vitamin C is made equal. It’s difficult to formulate in a way that maintains its stability and efficacy so choose yours wisely. The best vitamin C serums are those freshly compounded to ensure peak efficacy when you apply it. 

Vitamin C benefits 

Vitamin C has so many benefits, including: 

• Protection against UV damage 
• Protection against environmental stressors 
• Skin brightening 

How to use vitamin C? 

A vitamin C skincare routine is relatively easy to implement, which means there’s no better time than now to start. 

Use vitamin C in the morning, after cleansing and before moisturising. This is another ingredient you don’t need to overdo when it comes to the amount applied. A thin layer across the face is plenty to get the job done. 

Make sure to follow with sunscreen as vitamin C and sunscreen work in tandem to protect your skin from UV damage and environmental stress. 

Vitamin C side effects 

Vitamin C is pretty well tolerated if the ingredient has been formulated correctly, but can cause a few side effects, particularly when you first start out using it. 

• Irritation 
• Redness 
• Tingling upon application 
• Breakouts

Hyaluronic acid is a popular humectant that has a brilliant ability to retain water, which relieves dry skin. It often comes in a serum or as an addition to a cream formula and the most effective hyaluronic acid serums — as you’ll find with our Chapters formula — come in both short and long chain molecules for better absorption onto the skin. 

Aside from its moisture-boosting properties, hyaluronic acid is also popular because it works well with other ingredients. You can use it alongside many other active ingredients meaning it slots into a skincare routine easily. 

Hyaluronic acid benefits 

Hyaluronic acid is a great addition to any skincare routine because it: 

• Hydrates the skin 
• Supports the skin barrier 
• Helps to appearance of fine lines 

How to use hyaluronic acid? 

Hyaluronic acid can be used morning and evening after cleansing and before moisturiser and sunscreen. It’s best used on damp skin as this helps boost moisture levels in the skin. 

Hyaluronic acid side effects 

Thankfully, there are little side effects to hyaluronic acid. 

• There is always a small risk of allergic reaction.
• Some people note dryness if hyaluronic acid is used on dry skin and not followed by a moisturiser.

Azelaic acid is an ingredient that works brilliantly for so many skin concerns as it yields great results and is well tolerated. Azelaic acid typically comes in a serum or cream formula and is used in your everyday off-the-shelf skincare products as well as prescription products. 

It’s a dicarboxylic acid, which is a naturally occurring acid produced by yeast (malassezia furfur) on the skin. It’s also found in grains like rye, wheat and barley. However, for skincare, it's often made synthetically for stability reasons. 

Azelaic acid benefits

Azelaic acid has many benefits, including:

• Reducing inflammation
• Fighting breakouts by stabilising keratin production
• Evening skintone by inhibiting tyrosinase
• Protecting skin with antioxidant properties 

Unlike other ingredients like retinoids, azelaic acid is safe to use during pregnancy, which is a huge benefit for many. 

How to use azelaic acid?

Start with clean, dry skin and apply a thin layer to the face, avoiding sensitive areas like around the eyes. 

Leave it to dry for a few moments before following with a moisturiser and if you’re using it in the morning, finish off with broad-spectrum sunscreen. 

Azelaic acid side effects

One of the reasons azelaic acid is so popular is because it’s so well tolerated by most skin conditions. The few side effects you may experience include: 

• Slight irritation, to combat be sure to use on dry skin 
• Very rarely, it can cause discolouration in some, seek medical advice if you’re experiencing this

Tretinoin is a vitamin A derivative and is a powerful ingredient often referred to as the gold-standard in skin ageing. It’s a prescription-only ingredient because it’s so potent and requires a prescribing doctor to monitor your progress and side effects. 

It works by increasing the skin’s cell turnover, which can help with various skin concerns such as signs of ageing, acne, hyperpigmentation and uneven texture.Tretinoin cream typically comes in strengths of 0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1%

Tretinoin benefits 

There are so many benefits of Tretinoin, including: 

• Improve sun damaged skin through increased cell turnover reducing fine lines and wrinkles, sun spots and uneven texture.
• Clears acne breakouts and clogged pores through anti-inflammatory benefits and increased cell turnover. 

How to use Tretinoin?   

It’s important to apply Tretinoin to clean skin at night. Be sure to apply on dry skin as wearing on damp skin can increase absorption and cause irritation. 

Apply a thin layer across the face, avoiding sensitive areas like around the eyes and lips. Using more Tretinoin than necessary doesn’t increase efficacy, it’ll only increase irritation so it’s best to stick to the instructions. Leave this to dry and then follow with moisturiser. 

You need to wear sunscreen in the daytime when using Tretinoin. 

Tretinoin side effects 

• Retinisation, which is where your skin is adjusting to using retinoids and you may experience redness, irritation and peeling. Following our usage tips and the instructions of your prescribing doctor helps limit this.