We’ve all seen them on TikTok, the 10-15 step skincare routines that are about as extravagant as it gets. With promises of ‘glass skin’ as the result of these lengthy routines, it’s no surprise that people at home are starting to replicate them.
Although it may seem from these videos that more is more when it comes to skincare, at The Skin Diary, we know this isn’t the case — quite the opposite actually. Consider this a case for simplifying your routine and stripping back the product layering.
What is product layering
Just as it sounds, product layering is a process by which people layer various skincare products over the top of each other with the aim to get maximum benefits.
It’s often done using products that have one key ingredient e.g. hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, rather than products which are formulated to include multiple key ingredients in a single hard-working product.
Why excessive product layering isn’t a good idea
There are a few reasons we don’t recommend layering lots of products. The first is that the skin is a barrier and it does a brilliant job at protecting your skin against external aggressors. “Layering products doesn’t really make sense when you think about it. Your skin is very good at its primary role,” explains The Skin Diary’s co-founder Dr. Clare Kiely. “The main job of your skin is to keep you in and to keep the environment out. Your stratum corneum does a really good job at that, it’s like bricks and mortar. By layering on products, you're probably just layering on things that you’re eventually going to wash off.”
Because of this, it’s rather difficult to get products to penetrate the skin. In fact, Dr. Kiely notes that this is one of the hardest aspects of formulating products. “One of the hardest jobs that we have in skincare and topical products is getting things to cross that stratum corneum. Putting layers and layers of products on top of each other is not going to be beneficial.” Instead, choosing one product that helps the skin in multiple ways (such as Night Repair Therapy’s 3-stage approach to repair) is going to be more effective in most cases.
The second is that layering products increases the risk of irritation to the skin. Layering excessive amounts of skincare products can cause redness, irritation, dryness and can even contribute to conditions such as perioral dermatitis.
And finally, it’s expensive. A 10-step routine isn’t going to come cheap and we’re all for using skincare that’s proven to work. That’s why you won’t find our dermatologists recommending products that aren’t going to add significantly to your routine.
How to layer skincare
Of course, this isn’t to say you shouldn’t layer any products, there are certainly instances you should. For example, you might wish to use an antioxidant serum in the morning followed by your moisturiser. The excessive nature comes from applying multiple essences, toners, serums and moisturisers that might not be helping your achieve your skin goals. The routines that best address skin concerns are often the well thought-out and simplified ones — tailored to you by an expert.
Sunscreen in skincare layering can get a little confusing, too, as not everyone knows where in your routine you should apply it. Sunscreen is your very last step before you apply makeup. You should use sunscreen after moisturiser but before foundation (if you’re wearing one).
Basic skincare routine layering
An antioxidant first thing, usually a serum because they’re quite light and absorb well, then your SPF, ideally a moisturising SPF and then your makeup.
Then at nighttime, usually after cleansing, you’ll use your retinoid or other products and a moisturiser as well depending on your skin type.
When it comes to product layering, we like to adopt a minimalist, sensible approach. We want you to reach your skin goals without having to spend lots of money or time on extensive routines. If you’d like to embark on a prescription, personalised skincare routine where our consultant dermatologists guide you through your skincare order and the correct way to apply your skincare, get in touch about starting Chapters today.
