The Science of Ageing
"This is about skin health, cosmetic benefits are a welcome side effect"
Dr. Clare Kiely
The Science of Skin Health and Ageing
Skin science is at the heart of everything we do at The Skin Diary. As the global population over the age of 60 is expected to double by 2050, our dermatology team is deeply invested in the understanding of skin ageing biology. Healthy skin is youthful skin and understanding how to achieve your healthiest skin yet, through a deep understanding of the science, is where we come in.
Skin ageing is complex. Intrinsic factors (genetics and natural ageing processes) and extrinsic factors (UV exposure, pollution, poor sleep, stress and diet) come into play, degrading the structure and function of skin over time.
So, how do we protect it?
The Dermatologists Approach to Skin Ageing
Visible Photoageing is a Reflection of Molecular and Cellular Skin Ageing
Skin ageing has long been discussed as a cosmetic issue, our clinical and research experience tells us otherwise. Address skin health first to benefit from cosmetic outcomes.
Skin function and appearance is heavily affected by the ageing process. As a visible organ, the skin reflects underlying molecular and cellular changes. We see skin ageing on a spectrum.
Stages of Ageing
In the early stages, we observe clues such as fine lines, localised pigmentation changes (early photoageing); this is the stage of skin ageing we believe can be targeted and reversed.
In advanced photoageing, skin enters a state called 'dermatoporosis', chronic skin fragility. It’s often found in the elderly and in those with severe long-term sun damage. It reflects the accumulation of processes defined in the '12 hallmarks of ageing', such as DNA damage.
Prof. Chris Griffiths OBE, and Dr. Tamara Griffiths and the Manchester team have studied patterns of photoageing in human skin. They have defined skin ageing phenotypes (patterns) as: atrophic (fine wrinkles, sun spots and red spots) and hypertrophic (deep wrinkles, leathery).
A key biomarker identified through this work is a connecting protein called fibrillin-rich microfibrils. These act as structural anchors between the dermis and epidermis (the two main layers of the skin) and are essential for skin elasticity, and therefore resilience. These proteins readily absorb UV, and 'sacrifice' themselves to protect other skin structures. Lack of this fibrillin under a microscope is associated with the appearance of deep wrinkles.
The Role of Collagen and Fibrillin
Three structural proteins play central roles in maintaining the skin’s integrity: collagen, elastin and fibrillin. Collagen provides tensile strength and structure, while fibrillin and elastin form the elastic fibre system.
While collagen is widely discussed in skincare, fibrillin is often overlooked, yet its degradation is one of the earliest and most significant signs of photoageing — particularly deep wrinkling. Fibrillin-rich microfibrils are candelabra-like structures located at the dermal-epidermal junction and forms a scaffold for elastin, allowing skin to be resilient, bounce back and resist tearing.
In short: prioritising skin health by looking after our fibrillin during early intervention, our skin behaves, and subsequently appears, more youthful.